Tuesday, October 8, 2013
Pacific City, OR to Lincoln City, OR
26 BONE CHILLING Miles
“Bicycles are almost as good as guitars for meeting girls” ~ Bob Weir, Grateful Dead
We are up early, ready to start a new day. I open the curtains to check on the weather yet one more time before we depart and the dry has evolved into a downpour. We wait it out in the warmth and dryness of the room.
At 9:00 we are on our way, seemingly all uphill. The route today: Scenic Old Highway 101 to avoid the shoulderless even hillier new 101. 15 miles from our start, 6 miles uphill on the Old Scenic, the rain returns. We are now wet both inside and out as we start the perilous wet downhill ride on the pockmarked, rubble strewn(literally with fallen trees from the latest storm) roadway. The hairpin turns add to the excitement. For the first time on this trip, I am literally chilled to the bone. We pop out at Otis, spy a cozy corner cafe consisting of 6 tables and a counter to escape the cold and rain. We tell our waitress Lincoln City is our new destination after the downpour. She says if we are not looking for oceanfront, there are nice places for reasonable prices and returns with a name and a phone number. A quick call to the Captain Cook Inn gives us $39.95 for a walk in rate. Joe has once again eluded the evasive yurt accommodations.
We show up at 1pm; a warm, dry room awaits us and the inn is a total surprise: a refurbished 1940’s motor court inn; it is quaint, beautiful and clean with microwave, refrig, flat screen TV, couch, table and chairs, retiled bathroom with luxurious towels and soft chocolate brown decor throughout. Yet again we have hit the jackpot.
As we check in, Joe cozies up to the radiator in the office, takes his gloves off and reveals a white, numb finger: Raynaud’s Phenomenon, a vasoconstrictive disorder. This happened after 40 minutes in a warm cafe followed by a 6 mile ride with full gloves on. I had no idea he was still so chilled. Good thing he is not a smoker! We had better get to warmer climes soon.
It remains a bitter, windy wet cold outside; despite an inviting seafood grill a few feet away, we opt for fruit, cheese and wine in our cozy accommodations.
There is always mañana.