Wednesday, October 23, 2013
Jenner, CA to Point Reyes Station
43 SCENIC Miles
You will do foolish things, but do them with enthusiasm.
Sidonie Gabrielle Colette
Gray. Gloom. Fog. Cold.
The day begins as every other of the last week.
At 12 miles a stop in Bodega Bay, whose claim to fame is the location for Alfred Hitchcock’s “The Birds”, in order to make phone calls and secure tonight’s lodging. With neither cell service nor Internet last night, I was unable to research or to plan ahead.
With that task accomplished, it is time to head south again along a gorgeous, though gray and foggy coastline.
Eventually we head inland through sunny, serene Valley Ford, Tomales and then Marshall where the omnipresent fog returns.
Joe speaks to a CHP about the unpleasant drivers on One; the officer’s only suggestion: do not ride on One, the most dangerous road in California, where he sees one bicyclist death a week. Additionally he kindly recommends the Estero Cafe a mile away, perhaps to lighten our now grim moods. I am literally scared to death as I begin riding again.
The route, Highway One, now takes us along the spectacular eastern shoreline of Tomales Bay, renowned for its oysters, until we reach our day’s destination, Point Reyes Station, population 585. Our B&B has neither breakfast nor TV(we are now 6 out of 7 nights without TV, and sometimes also without phone or Internet–this 40 miles from San Francisco and no cell phone service– Alaska is a dream in comparison). It is only a 10 minute walk to town for provisions along a “trail”, thus we are sitting pretty. Dinner is at Osteria de Stillena, a locally sourced restaurant that’s been written up in the New York Times; perhaps this will help eradicate the coffee pot instant oatmeal of the morning.
Tomorrow San Francisco awaits us; the route appears a bit complicated as we try to avoid freeways and certain traffic. We are purposely steered away from One by the guidebooks and maps as it is simply too dangerous.
Wish me luck navigating through the suburban sprawl of Marin County, the birthplace of the mountain bike in the late 70’s, as I try to reach the renowned Golden Gate Bridge via Sausalito, the town of everyone’s fantasies.